Testing Radiator for Leaks

Metal Body Repair
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that pressure flushing will not remove it must be boiled out with a suitable

chemical solution. The vat is made so that the radiator may be lowered

beneath the surface on a level controlled rack. After the radiator has

boiled for a sufficient amount of time, it is removed from the vat and

placed in a spray booth. In the spray booth the outside of the radiator is

washed with air pressure and water to force out dirt, bugs, lint, and other

material lodged between the fins, so that free circulation of air around all

parts of each tube and fin is restored. Also, the interior of the radiator

is back flushed with air pressure and water.

(4) Cleaning Solution. To make a good cleaning solution, dissolve one

pound of ordinary baking soda in one gallon of water. If a commercially

prepared chemical cleaner for radiators is used, follow the direction on the

container.

(5) Rod Cleaning. If flushing or boiling is inadequate, scrape the

inside of the water passages with a bristle brush or cleaning rod. For

tubular radiators, this may be merely a round wire with its end rounded to

avoid puncturing the tube. For honey comb or cellular radiators, use a flat

strip of metal with edges and ends rounded, not quite as wide as the water

passage, pushing it back and forth through the water passages.

c. Testing Radiator for Leaks. Before testing a radiator to locate

leakage, inspect it carefully for visible leaks and solder them promptly, so

that the test will be sensitive enough to reveal less obvious defects.

There are two standard methods of testing: one by introducing air (under

light pressure) into the radiator, immersing it in water, and locating the

leaks by the appearance of bubbles; and the other, by filling the radiator

with water and locating the leaks by the moisture seeping through. Either

test is satisfactory, although the air test method is preferred. Mark the

leaks as soon as found to facilitate locating them during repairs.